MY OWN LITTLE TRINITY

With the acquisition of the Zenith Type 20 Pilot "Extra Special", 
I now have my own little personal trinity.

From left to right.
Zenith Stratos Flyback "Rainbow.
Zenith El Primero Striking 10th.
Zenith Type 20 Pilot "Extra Special"

With these 3 pieces, I somehow felt slightly complete in the Zenith brand of watches in my collection.

If a person is not too picky, these 3 actually ticks all the boxes.

The Stratos Rainbow for daily wear.

The Striking 10th for more formal events.

The Pilot as a weekend watch.

What more does one wish for?

But unfortunately, as a WIS... the "wants" are unlimited...

ZENITH MONTRE D'AERONEF TYPE 20 PILOT "EXTRA SPECIAL"

Well, this one came really quick after the Rainbow acquisition.
But really... What makes me think that I stand a chance?

It's the Zenith Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 "Extra Special"
Some might remember the 1st Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 watch released by Zenith in year 2012 is housed in a monstrous 57.5mm case powered by a vintage pocketwatch movement caliber 5011 which is equally big at 50mm.
It's of course a very impressive watch aimed at collectors and purists.

A year later, a full fledge of Type 20 pilots were released ranging from 40mm to 48mm.
I was initially interested in the 40mm Type 20 powered by Zenith's in-house Elite movement but it fits just a tad small.
The 48mm Type 20 GMT's on the other hand... fits just slightly too big...

This year, Zenith release another bigger Type 20 in a 60mm sapphire case. A truly haute horology piece called the "Grand Feu"

The type 20 I was interested in is the Type 20 "Extra Special" which was released a little too quietly. And after some digging.
I found out the watch was powered by a common but reliable 2892 clone Sellita SW300.

Well well well... Zenith... A true blue manufacture choosing to go the route of using outsourced movements.
Much of the online community and Zenith purists cried foul.

Me on the other hand, reserved judgement until seeing a piece in the flesh.
And after seeing one at my local AD, you guys can guess by now how it went.

There is now way I could resist something like this.
Clean dial. Huge numerals. Central sweeping seconds hands.
No numerals are cut off. No messy subdials.
Big visible hands with plenty of lume.
Just pure and unadultered. Just the way a pilot watch should be.
Designed is of course inspired by the Zenith Pilot watches of old.

The solid caseback is no less yummy.
Beautifully executed.
The other models powered by the in-house elite calibers are also fitted with solid casebacks with similar engravings.
So, do I mind that a non in-house movement makes this watch tick?
Absolutely not... provided it is reliable, easily serviceable, ample parts availability and provides good timekeeping.

The side profile of the case measuring 45mm.
To me, this is the perfect size for this watch.
A plaque with the "HB-0607" engravings is just a random number.
Do not mistaken this piece as a limited edition piece.
"HB" is the Swiss Civil Aviation Registration Code.
The four numbers could be the serial number though I have heard that it's completely random.

An oversized screwed down onion crown.
This really completes the overall vintage look of the watch.
Smooth, easy to handle and operate.

Another area that is vintage inspired is the lugs.
The screws I believe is to unscrew to remove the lugs.
The lugs extended only for the fitting of a springbar.
I would have preferred if they follow the 48mm brother which lugs is extended all the way into the strap holes.
No big deal but I just think it's a worthy mention.

The case itself is beautifully made.
Brushed sides.
The inherent Zenith quality is presented in oodles.

One thing I really like about the numerals is they are not painted on the dial, it's applied.
The numerals are fabricated from solid blocks of luminova and enclosed by black accents.
The rainbow also features such numerals.
Based on my limited knowledge, the only other watch that uses such fabricated numerals is the Peter Speake Marin Spirit MkII... correct me if I am wrong.

Also the applied Zenith star on the dial with the relevant printing.
All crisp and clear.

Another worthy mention is that Zenith actually trademarked the term "Pilot" on watch dials and that is the reason why other manufacturers' so called pilot watches does not have the word "Pilot" on the dial.
Zenith on the other hand are allowed to display it proudly on their dial.
I am sure in the coming years, the moniker of "Extra Special" will be made fun of and criticized to no end.
So I am not going into it.

Although the size is only shy of 0.5mm compared to the Rainbow, it feels worlds apart. It feels instantly at home on my wrist.

Regarding the criticism of Zenith using outsource movements, yes it's abit disheartening to hear that a true "Manufacture" suddenly resorts to using outsourced movements.
The purists and romantics are appalled at the decision.
As for me, I do understand why they are doing it.
They are running a business after all.
I sometimes wonder, do those who criticize actually owned an elite powered Zenith or any Zenith at all for that matter?
Because if the elite is such a huge seller moving tons of watches a year, I doubt the decision to use outsource movements will be made.

To most, Elite is just "another" Zenith movement.
Forever shadowed by the El Primero.
So, it does make sense to lower costs and use outsource movements and being able to offer Zenith watches at a lower price point... with the hope that these customers would one day upgrade.

But, after having spoke to Mr.Hugo Escude (Brand Director SEA), according to him, the new CEO Mr. Aldo Magada have decided to make 180 degree turn to stop production of Zenith watches using sellita movements.

A "New" Type 20 Pilot "might" be announced at Baselworld 2015 probably using the same case at 45mm with some tweaks particularly with the movement.
Surely powered by the Elite Caliber.
And of course, the prices would reflect that.

So I wait... to those who criticize... will they jump in and buy when this watch is using an Elite movement?
Or do they just criticize for the sake of it?

Either way, I don't really care... Because I have made my choice.

TUDOR BLACK BAY ON ENDLINKS AND NATO

As per reader Jon's request, here is a closer look of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay and the custom endlinks.

Ok, this is all that is needed.
The Tudor Black Bay watch head.
Custom endlinks.
A nice leather nato from Wotancraft.
A spring bar tool.

Spring bars still attached.

1st thing to do is to remove the spring bar using the spring bar tool.

Just slide in the custom endlinks.
The "wings" at the bottom side of the endlinks is to make sure they fit snugly.

The "wings" that I mentioned earlier.

Since I will be mounting a leather nato, the spring bars can be attached back.

Do it for both sides and it should look like so.

Slowly slide in the nato.

Voila! Easy peasy.

Obligatory wrist shots.
Looks good.

ZENITH STRATOS FLYBACK "RAINBOW" IN STAINLESS STEEL

This watch is a long time coming.
Dilly dallying... thinking... contemplating...
In the end, I succumbed... as usual...

It is the 2014 announced and released Zenith Stratos Flyback "Rainbow"
I am a fan of the multicoloured Rainbow for ages... having owned the old 40mm black dialed Rainbow Flyback.
I have missed the chance of purchasing the old 40mm multicoloured Rainbow a couple of times and got me thinking maybe it's just not meant to be.

I was kinda excited when the Stratos Multicolour Rainbow was released 2 years ago in an all black Alchron case and was a Boutique only piece.
I did try to track down a piece during my last trip to HK to view the piece in person at the Zenith Boutique at Russell Street HK but due to some miscommunication, the piece was already sold when I got there.
Bummer... can't try it on for size... oh well... maybe it's really just not meant to be?

But then it got me thinking, maybe... just maybe... Zenith will release a regular piece in stainless steel available for purchase at ADs... and guess what?
It happened! Good things do come to those who wait I guess?
The announcement and release of this watch was done quietly though... not at Baselworld 2014 but a couple of weeks after...

Well, long story short... with the recent refurbishment of my local AD and adding in Zenith to the plethora of brands that they carry... all the "Stars" are aligned... When one was available for viewing... I immediately went in for a test "wrist" drive.

Not kidding here but initial impressions were not good.
The watch comes in a bracelet only configuration.
I find it bulky, heavy and really hefty... wondering if I can really carry all that behemoth of a 45.5mm case.

But in the end, I took a leap of faith as I really loved the solidly built watch and also the revival of the "Rainbow" dial... so... I dived right in...

Once home... the first order of the day is to make the watch a teeny bit more wearable for regular sized wrists...

As I mentioned earlier, the watch came in a bracelet only configuration.
Got to remove the bracelet and fit in a strap...

Surprise surprise... Once the bracelet has been removed... the endlinks still remain intact...
Unlike most watches in the market, where the endlinks are normally attached to the bracelet... the Stratos Rainbow actually came with separate endlink pieces independent of the bracelet...
Some of you may know me as a fan of endlinks to go with straps as they mask the gap left after mounting a watch on strap.
But due to the size of this watch, I reckon those endlinks will have to go.

So, the endlinks are actually fastened by 2 small screws to the side of the case under the lugs.

Once unscrewed, the endlinks come right off...

The endlink piece and screws...
I must say this is a novel way of construction, with such configuration... the possibilities of the owner wearing on bracelet or on strap and with or without endlinks are expanded...
It's all up to the owner's personal preference.

Take a look at how short the lugs is...
Regular and small wrists can still wear this watch.

After mounting on the strap, there is hardly any gaps visible, so no endlinks necessary...
Lug size is 23mm... not easy to buy ready made straps of this size so custom ordered strap is on the way.
The strap I currently have on is 22mm... so there is a slight 1mm gap that is visible sometimes.

And with all that out of the way... the watch looks like so.
Pretty cool eh?
Now it looks like it's ready to be strapped on by a French Fighter Pilot... just like the way the original Rainbow was designed for...
The original Flyback Rainbow was designed according to specifications put forth by the French Air Force.

I don't know if this piece still adheres to those specifications but one thing for sure, this one looks less of a tool watch (let's be real, is there any luxury watch considered a tool nowadays?) but more like a modernized luxury watch "inspired" by the old Flyback Rainbow.

It does however share all the same case and a slightly different movement as the Stratos that Felix Baumgartner wore while breaking the sound barrier jumping from the edge of the stratosphere.
So I can safely say that this watch is no slouch.

I must say that the dial design hits all the sweet spot.
Staying true to the original Rainbow colourway but updated for today's taste...
Legibility is not an issue. Even with the busy dial, time can be read out at a glance.

Bezel is 120 clicks uni-directional.
I find the clicks a little rough... maybe I am just nitpicking.
Bezel insert is anodized aluminium... I would have preferred a ceramic bezel though.
Why didn't they just use the same red accented ceramic bezel from the Limited Edition Alchron case Stratos Rainbow?

The subdial that makes me go ga-ga... Yes... simple things like these does matter... Just like Zenith's iconic Tri-colour dial, this Rainbow colourway with the Multicoloured subdials is part of Zenith's iconic look... never replicated... all original design...

Most people have the opinion that Zenith has an iconic watch movement in the El Primero but no iconic watch.
I would have to disagree there.
The tricolour dial A386, the Zenith Flyback Rainbow and in some aspects... the Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 line of pilot watches are all iconic in their looks.

If you're wondering why the subdials are marked at 3 minute increments is because when making overseas calls (especially for soldiers posted at foreign lands calling home), they were charged at 3 minute blocks... having marked them in 3 minute increments allow you to time your calls and make sure of the credit/time you have left. 

Now with the advent of modern communication devices... overseas calls charged at 3 minute blocks are all but obsolete...
By leaving the original look intact, it reminds us of the history of these watches and the relevance of dial markings in watch design.

The flange of the dial is marked with a telemeter scale as opposed to the usual tachymetre scale.
What is this for?
It is to measure the distance relative to sight and sound.

Say if I were to fire a mortar at an enemy, I start the chronograph the moment the mortar fires, and stop the chronograph when the mortar hits the ground... I now know the distance of that mortar being fired in kilometers... and I can adjust the mortar cannon to fire further or nearer depending on where the enemy is...
Cool right? Not that I am firing mortars for a living...

Or you can just time how far a lightning strike is... by starting the chronograph when you see the flash and stopping it when you hear the thunderclap, now you know how far the lightning is...

But I very much prefer the mortar example :-)

Take a closer look at the dial and you can see that the numerals are made of solid blocks of Luminova... 
It gives off a 3D effect and feel.

Another small change for this model compared to the regular Stratos is making the hour totalizer subdial smaller.
This way, the complaints that plagued the other models is addressed.
No more overlapping subdials and the chronograph functions and reading elapsed time will be accurate whereby previously, it took some guesses at best...

The chronograph seconds hands look red but is actually closer to fluorescent pink or somewhere there.
It matches the colour on the minute totalizer hand.
Go clubbing with this watch under some UV lights and I guess both the hands will stand out...

Applied Zenith Star... love those. 

Huge screw down crown.
Water resistance rated to 100m...
The old Rainbow with no screw down crown is rated the same, but does not inspire confidence. This on the other hand is much better.
Rectangular pushers are easy and nicer to operate... much nicer than the old round ones because it takes less effort to press and overall feel is much more sturdy.

The length of the case from lug to lug is 54mm by my own measurements.
The sloping cut off lugs of course makes the watch wears smaller than it actually is.

You can also make it in the background that the bezel is actually sloping inwards to the dial... concave shape... pretty cool.

Movement powering the watch is the El Primero Caliber 405B.
Good move by Zenith to blue the column wheel.
The nice contrast is very much welcomed.
Just love the complex but beautiful El Primero caliber's architecture.
Beats at the same 36,000 vph hi-beat rate... with a flyback complication.

After owning and wearing the watch for a couple of days, I find that the watch is a joy to wear although I am still coming to terms with it's size and heft.
The overall size is worse on the original bracelet... maybe it's just me.
I am just happy that Zenith choose to release a definitive version of the modern Rainbow and make it accessible... both in pricing and availability... by not making it a Boutique Edition.
All in all this watch is just awesome.
Solidly built, housing a proven, reliable and robust caliber and at a quite attractive price point for a flyback chronograph.

Question is... does this watch need to be buffed all the way to 45.5mm? I think the answer is no... but one can understand why they did it.
In this age of supersizing, everyone wants everything bigger...
I think it can do away with a few mm less...

I can confidently announce that the iconic Rainbow's revival is complete... The Rainbow is officially well and truly... BACK!!
If this is done in a 42-43mm case, then it will be "BACK WITH A BANG!!"
But I can settle for "BACK!!" at the moment.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY REF:79220R

Am I too late for the party?

A watch announced and launched back in Baselworld 2012?

Better late than never I say...

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Ref:79220R
This year, Tudor did a cosmetic update to the watch in a "Midnight Blue" colourway...
The watch came originally on bracelet but I think this watch looks better on strap, so on goes the OEM distressed leather strap and also 3rd party endlinks just to cover up the gaps left by the somewhat thin strap.

Mine comes with a warmer Burgundy bezel.
Burgundy, the colour of Tudor as much as green is the colour of Rolex.
Snowflake hands, matte black dial, rose gold surround markers and hands, gilt printing on dial.
Overall package? A very nostalgic and warm feel.

Nicely done crown with the flower logo.
Screwing and unscrewing felt precise... winding is smooth.
Movement is the tried and tested ETA 2824... gets the job done with minimal hassle and cost.
Tudor is one of those brands that did not rename ETA calibers to some fancy names to confuse non-wis customers.
I find this laudable.

I just love it when casebacks are done like this.
Flat and close to the middle case instead of bulging.
Wears more comfortably this way.

Bevelled lugs... this is like the norm now.
I don't think there's any reputable brand that's not doing bevelled lugs at the moment.
3rd party endlinks fits like a glove.

The watch feels excellent on the distressed leather strap.
Buckle is also well made.
Funny why they designed it in such a way the the "tail" end of the strap is facing down at the 6 o'clock side.
Not complaining... quite unique... does not hamper comfort.

After awhile, decided to take away the endlinks and wear it on just the strap.
The gap is hardly noticeable.
Makes the watch looks smaller as a whole.

I then tried it on a thicker strap.
Looks good as well.
Proves that this watch is really flexible.

Early ownership of this watch does not yield much satisfaction.
But after giving it some time, it has started to warm up.
Beautifully made case and comfortable to wear.
For those that are not looking at Tudor nowadays is missing something really good here.
This is a watch manufactured on the same standards as a Rolex (except using a different grade of steel) and housing an ETA movement.
The whole package comes at an accessible price point even... except the Rolex brand of prestige... or stigma... depending on your point of view.
What more can you ask for?