Saturday, 9 May 2015

ROLEX GMT MASTER II CERAMIC REF: 116710BLNR

Another thing that I did last year besides the Safari acquisition was a gift to my Dad.
Being in his generation... The best watch will always be a Rolex.


What better than the GMT Master II Ceramic ref: 116710BLNR?
Released by Rolex as the 1st bi-colour GMT bezel watch.
It gets purists drooling if a red/black coke or a blue/red pepsi is in the works.
It turns out... the pepsi did come a year later in white gold...
But as far as Rolex Professional series goes, the stainless steel models are the ones to go for.
Sturdily built, robust and reliable movement, ample water resistance, with a little bling factor added in.


A closer look at the ceramic (cerachrom in Rolex terms) bezel.
The transition between black and blue is nicely done.


Trip Lock Crown.
Water resistant rating at 100m.
More than enough.
Rolex Oyster cases are renowned for their water resistance properties.


One of the reasons of my preference of the GMT Master II models over the submariner models is the flatter casebacks.
It might be just slightly flatter, but on the wrist it feels a world of difference. 


This is the little bling factor that I mentioned.
Polished centre links or PCL as people call it.


It comes with a fliplock clasp.
Only drawback is the micro adjustments only allow for +-5mm adjustments.
Would love the same gridelock clasp from the Submariner though which provides more micro adjustments.
Other than that, works like a charm.


40mm case size, I guess this is as good as it gets to a "universal" size.
Never too big or too small, just right.
I think no one would disagree with me when I say that in the comfort department, Rolex does it best.

Being my dad's only watch now, he's back to being a happy camper and wearing it daily.

Sunday, 3 May 2015

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SAFARI 2014

After staying quiet for quite sometime... The WIS bug starts biting yet again.
And this time, it's stiff... So stiff that I might stop for at least a year... lol


Yup... It's the Royal Oak Offshore Ref: 26470ST.OO.A801CR.01 which is the new model released in 2014. The reference is a mouthful, let's just call this the Royal Oak Offshore Safari 2014 from here on.

Last year, Audemars Piguet released 6 new "reimagined" Offshores. 4 in stainless steel and 2 in gold.
I have always liked the Offshore collection from AP but me being the nitpicking guy that I am, a few things kept me off.
First is the rubber pushers and crown. Some have said that they are durable but need replacing after some time. I am not a fan of replacing parts besides the usual gaskets.
The second is the solid caseback. I am not a fan of solid casebacks unless they are nicely engraved (see Zenith Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 GMT or Extra Special)

So, when I heard that AP was going to "reimagine" the Offshore line, naturally I was excited.
I specifically hoped that 3 things would happen.

1. Ceramic crown and pushers.
2. Display caseback.
3. Ceramic bezel.

Well, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.
The watch still sport a stainless steel bezel.
The ceramic bezel is still reserved for the higher end 44mm Novelty Offshores.

Having owned and rotated with my other watches for 4 months now. I think a review is at hand.


Out of the 4 stainless steel models released (Navy, Black/Red, Slate Grey, Safari), my choice was either the Black/Red or the Safari.
Having seen the Black/Red in Korea, it felt slightly underwhelming.
This is of course a very personal preference.
And when my local AD called to let me know that the Safari and the Navy was available. I went there to view both in person and settled on the Safari.
BTW, I heard that the bestseller was the Slate Grey model.


The ivory dial is the 1st thing that grabs my attention.
The previous version comes with an off white dial (very very close to white actually), this version with the ivory dial is just awesome.
Coupled with the dark brown accents, it matches well with the "Safari" theme.

AP Logo is now applied rather than printed like the previous version.

Sharp eyes will also notice that the dial, although still carrying the "mega tapisserie" pattern, has lost the concentric grooves that are always visible on the previous models due to manufacturing techniques.
I guess they changed the manufacturing process as the newer dial are all matte and smooth.
I like it this way as it lends a sleek and modern feel to the watch.

The hands are also faceted to accommodate the sleeker modern dial.

You can also see that the date aperture is quite deep... it is due to the fact that the watch is powered by a piggybacked movement.
What it does is with the chronograph module on top of the base movement, the date wheel is way deeper that it's suppose to be.
So there is magnification, and the magnification glass is placed on the dial. This maintains the flat sapphire glass.
Unlike how Rolex does it but that is the Rolex trademark "look". Magnification is placed on top of the sapphire glass which is a protruding piece of glass we affectionately call the "cyclops"


The markers still remain the same.
Cutoff numerals are not one of my favourites.
I think it might work better with just some stick markers.


Another change is the crownguards design.
It's now more pronounced and slightly more complex with the various angles and facets.
I like it. Adds to the overall modern feel.
As I mentioned before, pushers and crown is now ceramic.
They are nicely made and well finished.
One thing still bugs me, the fully screwed down crown still does not align the AP logo... sheeeesh... 
With the screwed down crown, water resistance is rated to 100m.



A close look at the crown and pushers.


The flawless execution of beveled lugs.


The sapphire caseback showcasing the movement.
From the back, it looks exactly like my Royal Oak 15400.
It is because this watch uses the same caliber 3120 as a base with a Dubuis Depraz chronograph module mounted on top.
AP calls this caliber 3126/3840

I know some people dread the use of modular movements.
I am neutral in this area. 
For me, as long as the base movement is proven reliable and robust, I am fine with it.
In this case, the base caliber have been around since 2003.
I guess whatever teething problems would have been sorted out long ago.



The watch comes mounted with a hand stitched hornback alligator strap.
It matches the overall "Safari" colour scheme.
The strap is thick on the lug side and tapers thinner till the tail end.
Slightly too thin for my liking actually.
I would love for the strap to be slightly thicker on the tail end as this watch is kind of bulky.


A pin buckle is in favour over the deployants in the previous models.
It does fit well. Slightly uncomfortable due to the sharp edges.
Rounded edged on the back of the buckle would do wonders.
And look closer. See the brown residue on the buckle?


Due to the aforementioned sharp edges, besides feeling slightly uncomfortable on the wrist, it also scrapes the edges of the strap every time I put it on.
I believe a picture speaks a thousand words.
Bear in mind I own this watch brand new and it has only been 4 months. Now imagine after 4 years.
Also take note that the strap replacements do not come cheap.



Now on to some nitpicking... lol
The underside on the gaskets under the bezel attract quite alot of dust.
Compounding the problem is that it's in an area that's difficult to reach and clean.






One of the allures of the Safari is that the dial changes in tones depending on lighting conditions as evidenced by the wristshots.
Can't help being mesmerized.
The 42mm case size is not too overwhelming but the 14.23mm case thickness is slightly tall.
Along with some of my friends, we agree that it's a scratch magnet.
Especially on the bezel.
That's why I hoped that it would come with a ceramic bezel.
Like I said, can't have it all.

Overall, the 2014 Safari achieved what it sets out to do.
A refreshing take on the Offshore collection.
On the whole, the watch feels sleek and modern.
Makes the previous models look slightly dated in my opinion.
Which is a good thing. It means the changes is more befitting for modern times.

Lastly, I would like to apologize for the lack of updates on the blog.
As you might have known, I only post watches that I either owned or loaned from friends.
I write more about ownership experiences and less on news and updates.
I think it's a better direction for me and the blog.
It makes my reviews neutral, not obligated or compelled to only write nice things.

Hope you enjoyed the review.
I hope I do not have to stop for a year.... lol

Friday, 26 September 2014

MY OWN LITTLE TRINITY

With the acquisition of the Zenith Type 20 Pilot "Extra Special", 
I now have my own little personal trinity.


From left to right.
Zenith Stratos Flyback "Rainbow.
Zenith El Primero Striking 10th.
Zenith Type 20 Pilot "Extra Special"


With these 3 pieces, I somehow felt slightly complete in the Zenith brand of watches in my collection.
If a person is not too picky, these 3 actually ticks all the boxes.

The Stratos Rainbow for daily wear.
The Striking 10th for more formal events.
The Pilot as a weekend watch.

What more does one wish for?
But unfortunately, as a WIS... the "wants" are unlimited...

Tuesday, 23 September 2014

ZENITH MONTRE D'AERONEF TYPE 20 PILOT "EXTRA SPECIAL"

Well, this one came really quick after the Rainbow acquisition.
But really... What makes me think that I stand a chance?


It's the Zenith Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 "Extra Special"
Some might remember the 1st Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 watch released by Zenith in year 2012 is housed in a monstrous 57.5mm case powered by a vintage pocketwatch movement caliber 5011 which is equally big at 50mm.
It's of course a very impressive watch aimed at collectors and purists.

A year later, a full fledge of Type 20 pilots were released ranging from 40mm to 48mm.
I was initially interested in the 40mm Type 20 powered by Zenith's in-house Elite movement but it fits just a tad small.
The 48mm Type 20 GMT's on the other hand... fits just slightly too big...

This year, Zenith release another bigger Type 20 in a 60mm sapphire case. A truly haute horology piece called the "Grand Feu"

The type 20 I was interested in is the Type 20 "Extra Special" which was released a little too quietly. And after some digging.
I found out the watch was powered by a common but reliable 2892 clone Sellita SW300.

Well well well... Zenith... A true blue manufacture choosing to go the route of using outsourced movements.
Much of the online community and Zenith purists cried foul.

Me on the other hand, reserved judgement until seeing a piece in the flesh.
And after seeing one at my local AD, you guys can guess by now how it went.



There is now way I could resist something like this.
Clean dial. Huge numerals. Central sweeping seconds hands.
No numerals are cut off. No messy subdials.
Big visible hands with plenty of lume.
Just pure and unadultered. Just the way a pilot watch should be.
Designed is of course inspired by the Zenith Pilot watches of old.


The solid caseback is no less yummy.
Beautifully executed.
The other models powered by the in-house elite calibers are also fitted with solid casebacks with similar engravings.
So, do I mind that a non in-house movement makes this watch tick?
Absolutely not... provided it is reliable, easily serviceable, ample parts availability and provides good timekeeping.


The side profile of the case measuring 45mm.
To me, this is the perfect size for this watch.
A plaque with the "HB-0607" engravings is just a random number.
Do not mistaken this piece as a limited edition piece.
"HB" is the Swiss Civil Aviation Registration Code.
The four numbers could be the serial number though I have heard that it's completely random.



An oversized screwed down onion crown.
This really completes the overall vintage look of the watch.
Smooth, easy to handle and operate.


Another area that is vintage inspired is the lugs.
The screws I believe is to unscrew to remove the lugs.
The lugs extended only for the fitting of a springbar.
I would have preferred if they follow the 48mm brother which lugs is extended all the way into the strap holes.
No big deal but I just think it's a worthy mention.


The case itself is beautifully made.
Brushed sides.
The inherent Zenith quality is presented in oodles.



One thing I really like about the numerals is they are not painted on the dial, it's applied.
The numerals are fabricated from solid blocks of luminova and enclosed by black accents.
The rainbow also features such numerals.
Based on my limited knowledge, the only other watch that uses such fabricated numerals is the Peter Speake Marin Spirit MkII... correct me if I am wrong.


Also the applied Zenith star on the dial with the relevant printing.
All crisp and clear.


Another worthy mention is that Zenith actually trademarked the term "Pilot" on watch dials and that is the reason why other manufacturers' so called pilot watches does not have the word "Pilot" on the dial.
Zenith on the other hand are allowed to display it proudly on their dial.
I am sure in the coming years, the moniker of "Extra Special" will be made fun of and criticized to no end.
So I am not going into it.


Although the size is only shy of 0.5mm compared to the Rainbow, it feels worlds apart. It feels instantly at home on my wrist.

Regarding the criticism of Zenith using outsource movements, yes it's abit disheartening to hear that a true "Manufacture" suddenly resorts to using outsourced movements.
The purists and romantics are appalled at the decision.
As for me, I do understand why they are doing it.
They are running a business after all.
I sometimes wonder, do those who criticize actually owned an elite powered Zenith or any Zenith at all for that matter?
Because if the elite is such a huge seller moving tons of watches a year, I doubt the decision to use outsource movements will be made.

To most, Elite is just "another" Zenith movement.
Forever shadowed by the El Primero.
So, it does make sense to lower costs and use outsource movements and being able to offer Zenith watches at a lower price point... with the hope that these customers would one day upgrade.

But, after having spoke to Mr.Hugo Escude (Brand Director SEA), according to him, the new CEO Mr. Aldo Magada have decided to make 180 degree turn to stop production of Zenith watches using sellita movements.

A "New" Type 20 Pilot "might" be announced at Baselworld 2015 probably using the same case at 45mm with some tweaks particularly with the movement.
Surely powered by the Elite Caliber.
And of course, the prices would reflect that.

So I wait... to those who criticize... will they jump in and buy when this watch is using an Elite movement?
Or do they just criticize for the sake of it?

Either way, I don't really care... Because I have made my choice.

Saturday, 6 September 2014

TUDOR BLACK BAY ON ENDLINKS AND NATO

As per reader Jon's request, here is a closer look of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay and the custom endlinks.



Ok, this is all that is needed.
The Tudor Black Bay watch head.
Custom endlinks.
A nice leather nato from Wotancraft.
A spring bar tool.



Spring bars still attached.



1st thing to do is to remove the spring bar using the spring bar tool.




Just slide in the custom endlinks.
The "wings" at the bottom side of the endlinks is to make sure they fit snugly.



The "wings" that I mentioned earlier.


Since I will be mounting a leather nato, the spring bars can be attached back.



Do it for both sides and it should look like so.




Slowly slide in the nato.



Voila! Easy peasy.



Obligatory wrist shots.
Looks good.