AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK & ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SIDE BY SIDE

After acquiring a pair of Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore.
I was thinking maybe a side by side comparison to see how both these watches stack against each other.

Having recently converted the Royal Oak Offshore to bracelet, the comparison is more closer to the intended purpose...

Size wise, the Royal Oak Offshore comes in at 42mm while the Royal Oak is at 41mm.
Only 1mm difference between them but with the extended crownguards... it looks bigger... but only slightly.

The difference in thickness is more apparent.
With the Royal Oak coming in at less than 1cm thick and the Royal Oak Offshore closer to 1.6cm thick.
Totally different feel here.
Once is thin, refined, understated.
The other is tall, chunky and "in your face"

General feelings on bracelet finishing also comes in different.
The Royal Oak feels sharp, precise and clean.
Meanwhile the Royal Oak Offshore feels rounded with soft curves.
This does not mean that the quality is different, just the "feel"

On the watch head, both watches are similar in looks.
The thin Royal Oak looks more refined... understated even.
Finishing is top notch with sharp angles and beautifully brushed surfaces.
While the Royal Oak Offshore with the thicker watch means thicker bezel and visible gaskets.
Finishing is of the same standard.

On the wrist, both wears vastly different.
The Royal Oak wears slim. Understated. Oozing with class and quality.
The Offshore on the other hand wears with a commanding presence. Big, bold and brash.

Both watches are excellent timepieces in their own right.
The Royal Oak currently carries a retail price in the mid rm50,000 while the Offshore comes in at the higher end of rm80,000.
Prices are due to be adjusted comes 1st Sept 2015.

The Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore are both well made, well finished, features an iconic design, manufactured by a powerhouse brand and priced in the premium luxury segment.

Of the two, if I were to choose only one, it would be the Royal Oak.
For me, it's more comfortable to wear, more of an all rounder and costs less.
Of course, different strokes for different folks.
Both still have a place in my collection for the time being.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SAFARI 2014

After staying quiet for quite sometime... The WIS bug starts biting yet again.

And this time, it's stiff... So stiff that I might stop for at least a year... lol

Yup... It's the Royal Oak Offshore Ref: 26470ST.OO.A801CR.01 which is the new model released in 2014. The reference is a mouthful, let's just call this the Royal Oak Offshore Safari 2014 from here on.

Last year, Audemars Piguet released 6 new "reimagined" Offshores. 4 in stainless steel and 2 in gold.

I have always liked the Offshore collection from AP but me being the nitpicking guy that I am, a few things kept me off.

First is the rubber pushers and crown. Some have said that they are durable but need replacing after some time. I am not a fan of replacing parts besides the usual gaskets.

The second is the solid caseback. I am not a fan of solid casebacks unless they are nicely engraved (see Zenith Montre D'Aeronef Type 20 GMT or Extra Special)

So, when I heard that AP was going to "reimagine" the Offshore line, naturally I was excited.

I specifically hoped that 3 things would happen.

1. Ceramic crown and pushers.

2. Display caseback.

3. Ceramic bezel.

Well, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.

The watch still sport a stainless steel bezel.

The ceramic bezel is still reserved for the higher end 44mm Novelty Offshores.

Having owned and rotated with my other watches for 4 months now. I think a review is at hand.

Out of the 4 stainless steel models released (Navy, Black/Red, Slate Grey, Safari), my choice was either the Black/Red or the Safari.

Having seen the Black/Red in Korea, it felt slightly underwhelming.

This is of course a very personal preference.

And when my local AD called to let me know that the Safari and the Navy was available. I went there to view both in person and settled on the Safari.

BTW, I heard that the bestseller was the Slate Grey model.

The ivory dial is the 1st thing that grabs my attention.

The previous version comes with an off white dial (very very close to white actually), this version with the ivory dial is just awesome.

Coupled with the dark brown accents, it matches well with the "Safari" theme.

AP Logo is now applied rather than printed like the previous version.

Sharp eyes will also notice that the dial, although still carrying the "mega tapisserie" pattern, has lost the concentric grooves that are always visible on the previous models due to manufacturing techniques.

I guess they changed the manufacturing process as the newer dial are all matte and smooth.

I like it this way as it lends a sleek and modern feel to the watch.

The hands are also faceted to accommodate the sleeker modern dial.

You can also see that the date aperture is quite deep... it is due to the fact that the watch is powered by a piggybacked movement.

What it does is with the chronograph module on top of the base movement, the date wheel is way deeper that it's suppose to be.

So there is magnification, and the magnification glass is placed on the dial. This maintains the flat sapphire glass.

Unlike how Rolex does it but that is the Rolex trademark "look". Magnification is placed on top of the sapphire glass which is a protruding piece of glass we affectionately call the "cyclops"

The markers still remain the same.

Cutoff numerals are not one of my favourites.

I think it might work better with just some stick markers.

Another change is the crownguards design.

It's now more pronounced and slightly more complex with the various angles and facets.

I like it. Adds to the overall modern feel.

As I mentioned before, pushers and crown is now ceramic.

They are nicely made and well finished.

One thing still bugs me, the fully screwed down crown still does not align the AP logo... sheeeesh... 

With the screwed down crown, water resistance is rated to 100m.

A close look at the crown and pushers.

The flawless execution of beveled lugs.

The sapphire caseback showcasing the movement.

From the back, it looks exactly like my Royal Oak 15400.

It is because this watch uses the same caliber 3120 as a base with a Dubuis Depraz chronograph module mounted on top.

AP calls this caliber 3126/3840

I know some people dread the use of modular movements.

I am neutral in this area. 

For me, as long as the base movement is proven reliable and robust, I am fine with it.

In this case, the base caliber have been around since 2003.

I guess whatever teething problems would have been sorted out long ago.

The watch comes mounted with a hand stitched hornback alligator strap.

It matches the overall "Safari" colour scheme.

The strap is thick on the lug side and tapers thinner till the tail end.

Slightly too thin for my liking actually.

I would love for the strap to be slightly thicker on the tail end as this watch is kind of bulky.

A pin buckle is in favour over the deployants in the previous models.

It does fit well. Slightly uncomfortable due to the sharp edges.

Rounded edged on the back of the buckle would do wonders.

And look closer. See the brown residue on the buckle?

Due to the aforementioned sharp edges, besides feeling slightly uncomfortable on the wrist, it also scrapes the edges of the strap every time I put it on.

I believe a picture speaks a thousand words.

Bear in mind I own this watch brand new and it has only been 4 months. Now imagine after 4 years.

Also take note that the strap replacements do not come cheap.

Now on to some nitpicking... lol

The underside on the gaskets under the bezel attract quite alot of dust.

Compounding the problem is that it's in an area that's difficult to reach and clean.

One of the allures of the Safari is that the dial changes in tones depending on lighting conditions as evidenced by the wristshots.

Can't help being mesmerized.

The 42mm case size is not too overwhelming but the 14.23mm case thickness is slightly tall.

Along with some of my friends, we agree that it's a scratch magnet.

Especially on the bezel.

That's why I hoped that it would come with a ceramic bezel.

Like I said, can't have it all.

Overall, the 2014 Safari achieved what it sets out to do.

A refreshing take on the Offshore collection.

On the whole, the watch feels sleek and modern.

Makes the previous models look slightly dated in my opinion.

Which is a good thing. It means the changes is more befitting for modern times.

Lastly, I would like to apologize for the lack of updates on the blog.

As you might have known, I only post watches that I either owned or loaned from friends.

I write more about ownership experiences and less on news and updates.

I think it's a better direction for me and the blog.

It makes my reviews neutral, not obligated or compelled to only write nice things.

Hope you enjoyed the review.

I hope I do not have to stop for a year.... lol

AD VISIT

A good friend came down from KL recently for the Borneo International Marathon.
Managed to catch up with him and visited an AD for some window shopping.

The Tudor Pelagos.
Still thinking should I or shouldn't I? :-)
Very toolish looking watch.
Just wondering where this is going to fit in my rotation if I were to pull the trigger.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Panda Chronograph.
Also a very nice piece.
Side by side with the Royal Oak 15400.

Surprise surprise... The Audemars Piguet 15202 Jumbo in rose gold.
A very solid and beautiful piece.
The dial in really nice... the Petite Tapisserie dial makes a world of difference compared to the 15400's Grande Tapisserie dial.
Who would've guessed?

I must admit that after wearing the 41mm 15400 for almost a year now, this 39mm jumbo does feel kinda smallish.
Does not tickle my fancy yet... who knows? Maybe in the near future.

All 3 together.
Not bad for an impromptu visit.
And no, I did not buy anything... :-)

AP ROYAL OAK 15400 CLASP PROBLEM

Just my luck.
Realized that the right side push piece for my AP Royal Oak 15400 fell off.

I don't know how it happened or when it happened.
I only realized when the sharp edges dig into my wrist making it uncomfortable.

So, the watch is now back to the Service Centre in Singapore via my local AD.
My usual saleslady told me that it will be covered by the warranty.
Whole repair might take a month... sigh...
Looks like I will be without my favourite piece for quite sometime.

The right side of the push piece is still intact at the moment but I am asking them to triple check it so that this problem does not recur.

Am I disappointed? Slightly.
But I am giving Audemars Piguet the benefit of the doubt seeing that this clasp is a completely new design, I will currently take it as a lack of real world usage testing.
Seems like there are some kinks that need to be ironed out.

Will reserve my final judgement after everything is rectified.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF:15400

You know, in the journey of buying watches (I wouldn't say collecting since I limit myself to 5-7 watches max) most often or not, there was a plan.
In your mind, you know what will be your next acquisition.
The whole plan laid out. After this piece, then that one, then the hunt starts for that one and that's it. Complete. Stop. Happy camper.
Now it doesn't work like that. Life throws you curveballs, this is one of the curveballs I got.
After laying my eyes (and hands) on it during an impromptu visit to my local AD, I went thru a week of sleepless nights.
And in the end, I succumbed and pulled the trigger.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding ref: 15400.

The 1st time I strapped it on my wrist at the AD, I know this was it.
Everything just feels so right...
Announced this year at Basel 2012 as part of the 40th Anniversary Collection.
Not much have been changed over the last 40 years.
Case size have moved up slightly to 41mm.

Just look at that dial.
Sporting the iconic grande-tapisserie pattern.
Made the same way for 40 years.
Double hash as the 12 o'clock marker makes a return.
Trademark look of the Royal Oak collection is the octagonal Bezel with 8 exposed polished white gold hexagonal screws.

A close up shot of the dial reveals the more intricate details.
Notice the concentric grooves among the tapisserie?
Although the grooves are hard to see with the naked eye, but the reason for it being there is to lend a sunburst effect to the dial.
It is really beautiful.
It is a black dial but under different lighting condition, it can appear as charcoal grey, rusty brown or just jet black.

The AP logo is placed just under the double hash 12 o'clock marker.
Following Gerald Genta's design language, it carries an industrial flair, everything is pronounced and sharp. No curves. The design is dictated by 30, 45, 90 degree sharp angles.
Even the hands and markers is made up of sharp angles.

A welcome improvement (if I am allowed to call it an improvement) over the older model ref: 15300 is that now the date wheel is in the colour of the dial. So, mine came with a black date wheel.

Bracelet is integrated to the case.
See the 45 degree angle on the lugs? Sharp and pronounced.
Case thickness is 9.8mm which is pretty thin by today's standards considering watches are now going bigger and thicker.

The level of finishing is just top notch.
The interplay between polished and brushed surfaces especially when it comes into contact with sunlight is mesmerising.
One thing worth mentioning is that the brushed surfaces are are all uniform. All in the same direction.
And the brushing is unlike any other watch that I have seen.
Run your fingers across and you can actually feel it.

Another notable improvement over the previous model is the more robust clasp.

Thicker, feels sturdier and clicks firmer.

Clasp is nicely signed.
The bracelet construction reminds of a robot spine.
Starting width at the lug is 26mm tapering to 18mm at the clasp.
No micro adjustments but there are one-half links available for order from the local AD.
Not much of a problem as the links are all 5mm in size.
I did not find any difficulty getting the right fit.

Movement is the AP in-house caliber 3120.

This is also the movement used in the older ref: 15300 since 2005.

Movement itself is launched on the year 2003.

I believe any teething problems would have been rectified.

Movement beats at 21600 vph which is a little low by today's standards.

Power reserve is stated as 60 hours on a single barrel.

The rotor is a 22k monoblock solid gold hand engraved and decorated.

Beautiful piece of work.

Accuracy is well within COSC specs (movement is not COSC certified) running at +-2 seconds for over a week.

Rest it in the correct position overnight and I can even achieve spot on accuracy.

One thing I do not like though, is that during setting of time... when I push the crown back in, the minute hands "jump" which will cause the aligned hands moving out of position. Just a pet peeve of mine.

Singed hexagonal crown.

Screw down, water resistance rated at 50m.

Should be fine for some leisure swim and shower.

Annoying that the crown and AP logo did not align on the same plane as the case.

Lastly, a customary wristshot.

My ownership experience with this watch has all been positive.

There are some that I hope could be improved but hey, can't have em all can we?

But look at the bright side, I am now looking forward to something special on the 50th Anniversary of the Royal Oak.