Friday 9 November 2012

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF:15400

You know, in the journey of buying watches (I wouldn't say collecting since I limit myself to 5-7 watches max) most often or not, there was a plan.
In your mind, you know what will be your next acquisition.
The whole plan laid out. After this piece, then that one, then the hunt starts for that one and that's it. Complete. Stop. Happy camper.
Now it doesn't work like that. Life throws you curveballs, this is one of the curveballs I got.
After laying my eyes (and hands) on it during an impromptu visit to my local AD, I went thru a week of sleepless nights.
And in the end, I succumbed and pulled the trigger.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding ref: 15400.


The 1st time I strapped it on my wrist at the AD, I know this was it.
Everything just feels so right...
Announced this year at Basel 2012 as part of the 40th Anniversary Collection.
Not much have been changed over the last 40 years.
Case size have moved up slightly to 41mm.


Just look at that dial.
Sporting the iconic grande-tapisserie pattern.
Made the same way for 40 years.
Double hash as the 12 o'clock marker makes a return.
Trademark look of the Royal Oak collection is the octagonal Bezel with 8 exposed polished white gold hexagonal screws.


A close up shot of the dial reveals the more intricate details.
Notice the concentric grooves among the tapisserie?
Although the grooves are hard to see with the naked eye, but the reason for it being there is to lend a sunburst effect to the dial.
It is really beautiful.
It is a black dial but under different lighting condition, it can appear as charcoal grey, rusty brown or just jet black.


The AP logo is placed just under the double hash 12 o'clock marker.
Following Gerald Genta's design language, it carries an industrial flair, everything is pronounced and sharp. No curves. The design is dictated by 30, 45, 90 degree sharp angles.
Even the hands and markers is made up of sharp angles.


A welcome improvement (if I am allowed to call it an improvement) over the older model ref: 15300 is that now the date wheel is in the colour of the dial. So, mine came with a black date wheel.


Bracelet is integrated to the case.
See the 45 degree angle on the lugs? Sharp and pronounced.
Case thickness is 9.8mm which is pretty thin by today's standards considering watches are now going bigger and thicker.


The level of finishing is just top notch.
The interplay between polished and brushed surfaces especially when it comes into contact with sunlight is mesmerising.
One thing worth mentioning is that the brushed surfaces are are all uniform. All in the same direction.
And the brushing is unlike any other watch that I have seen.
Run your fingers across and you can actually feel it.


Another notable improvement over the previous model is the more robust clasp.


Thicker, feels sturdier and clicks firmer.


Clasp is nicely signed.
The bracelet construction reminds of a robot spine.
Starting width at the lug is 26mm tapering to 18mm at the clasp.
No micro adjustments but there are one-half links available for order from the local AD.
Not much of a problem as the links are all 5mm in size.
I did not find any difficulty getting the right fit.


Movement is the AP in-house caliber 3120.
This is also the movement used in the older ref: 15300 since 2005.
Movement itself is launched on the year 2003.
I believe any teething problems would have been rectified.
Movement beats at 21600 vph which is a little low by today's standards.
Power reserve is stated as 60 hours on a single barrel.
The rotor is a 22k monoblock solid gold hand engraved and decorated.
Beautiful piece of work.
Accuracy is well within COSC specs (movement is not COSC certified) running at +-2 seconds for over a week.
Rest it in the correct position overnight and I can even achieve spot on accuracy.
One thing I do not like though, is that during setting of time... when I push the crown back in, the minute hands "jump" which will cause the aligned hands moving out of position. Just a pet peeve of mine.


Singed hexagonal crown.
Screw down, water resistance rated at 50m.
Should be fine for some leisure swim and shower.
Annoying that the crown and AP logo did not align on the same plane as the case.


Lastly, a customary wristshot.
My ownership experience with this watch has all been positive.
There are some that I hope could be improved but hey, can't have em all can we?
But look at the bright side, I am now looking forward to something special on the 50th Anniversary of the Royal Oak.

4 comments:

  1. It's my favourite watch, my dream watch...thank you sir for the good review and lovely , lovely photos of it.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you good sir, for your kind words.
      Glad you enjoyed the review.

      Delete
  2. Hi there, May i know how much discount you got for this piece?

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