Thursday, 8 November 2012

FLIK FLAK WATCHES

Let's go for something lightweight this time.
These 2 watches belongs to my kids.
Yes, I am blessed with 2 beautiful children and being a watch nut myself, I would like something proper for them to wear as well.
Who knows, they might catch the same bug as me... lol
But no such signs of that yet.
Flik Flak watches.


The pink one for my daughter. Sorry, I do not know the exact model reference or collection.


The green one with dinosaur designs is naturally for my boy.
These watches are made specifically for children hence the cute designs that children can relate to.

The watches are quartz powered.
Notice the hour and minute hands of the boy's watch?
One of them is Flik and the other is Flak.
When you buy a Flik Flak watch, it actually comes with a card board clock dial with both Flik and Flak.
When it's all set up, it's a cool way to teach the children how to read the time by being able to move Flik or Flak around the clock by hand.
Too bad those that I have most probably ended up in the thrash long ago.
I do not know which is which as I have misplaced the boxes and manuals... I do apologize... :-)


For the girls watch, it's suppose to be a limited edition piece or some sort.
It comes with a nice presentation box and also a bracelet.
And of course priced higher than the standard models.
I do like the way the synthetic purple crystals is set on the underside of the plexi-glass. Nice touch.


Flik Flak watches are made by the Swatch Group which owns ETA, the movement maker.
You can see the ETA insignia engraved on the caseback.
Case is aluminium as stated on the caseback.
Battery change is similar to a Swatch watch where you twist the cap with a coin. Pretty standard stuff.

My kids have been wearing them for more than a year and they seem to be holding up really well... of course it's scratched up but still working fine and keeping accurate time.
Flik Flak watches cost anywhere between USD35 to USD80.
Pretty good value I would say.

Now if they would grow older, I would suspect they would outgrow this watch.... and when the time comes... there's always the bigger brother Swatch watches to look forward to. Until then... these will have to do. :-)

Wednesday, 7 November 2012

TUDOR PELAGOS REF:25500TN

Visited my usual local AD a couple of weeks ago and I got to catch a glimpse (well, more than a glimpse) of the Basel 2012 announced model.
The Tudor Pelagos Ref: 25500TN


From my understanding, the whole watch including bracelet is made of Titanium. Except the clasp which is made from Stainless Steel. Very light for it's size.
Excellent legibility as the contrasts are pretty heavy... just Black and White. Thick fat snowflake hands, blocky markers.
Bezel insert is a matte finish ceramic... with generous lume applied underneath. I did not take a lume shot but it's really impressive. Glows blue.


Due to the flat caseback (forgot the take a pic), the watch sits nicely on my wrist. Case size is 42mm. Snowflake hands and block markers pays homage to Tudor Divers of old. This is an updated version. Snowflake Generation 2 so to speak.


Clasp is as I mentioned before made from Stainless Steel.
Offers 3 levels of micro adjustment, while the 4th level is a spring loaded adjustment. Whereby it expands and contracts following the divers wrist as the pressure changes during the dive will cause the blood vessels to swell making the wrists bigger.
A cool feature but most probably won't be used for 99.9% of the time... I reckon... but a cool feature nonetheless.
As for the clasp itself, I find it more complicated in built than the Rolex Clasps... will it last? I would have to reserve my judgement on that.


At 42mm, it looks way bigger than my Royal Oak Ref: 15400 as the bezel is black making the watch looks waaaay bigger.
It is comfortable on the wrist though due to the lightweight titanium used.
Will I get it? Contemplating...
Retail for this one is RM13132.
Cortina Watch at 1Borneo still have 1 unit in stock.
Do check it out if you're interested.



Tuesday, 6 November 2012

PRE-JUDGING WATCHES

I seem to get myself into uncharted territories nowadays.
Today, let's talk about pre-judging watches.
A term that my good friend shared with me.
I admit, in my journey, I have countless times pre-judge watches before I know them personally.
Be it the design, things I have heard about the people that have worn them, or things that I have personally experienced.

When I was in my early 20s... I despise Rolex watches.
Yes I do. I find them boring... overpriced... and most importantly pretentious.
People wearing Rolex watches seems to only want to send a message... that they've made it.
That they have arrived big time.
And being in my line of work, can't help it that another image of Rolex watches that are being portrayed is that they're liquid.
You need money? Any pawn shop will take it. Simple as that.
I have even posted on a few forums on my disdain of Rolex... and the repercussions were... well... understandable.
But then, someone which I have never met in my entire life, messaged me as he is coming down to town and wanted to meet up.
A fellow WIS. Cool, I thought... doesn't hurt to expand my circle of friends.
We talked at a local coffee house and he taught me alot about Rolex watches.
And it is him that I jumped in and bought my 1st one, a Rolex Polar Explorer II ref:16570... actually it was for my Dad.
And I was changed, I find them really well made and most importantly, reliable.
So, I ate my own words... no big deal.
We learn during the journey.

Now recently,
I hate Panerai watches. Yes I do.
I find that their watches are stale, big, bold and brash.
Just like their owners.
I have met people that called themselves "Ristis" or "Paneristis", which is an endearing term for something like a brotherhood of Panerai lovers... a very passionate bunch.
But the problem is, they adore Panerai so much that it is beyond criticism. Any criticism that you spot on any watch forum, and they will come in droves to support their brand.
Supporting a brand is the norm, it's like saying which carmaker is your favourite, but it doesn't make the other carmakers bad right?
But I have been ridiculed... yes... by Ristis no less... they said that at this day, no watches are worth collecting but Panerai.
Other watches are just a waste of time and money.
So, it is only natural that it adds to my hate for the brand.

It is also in this time that I met an ultra WIS... he taught me even more about Panerai watches and their history.
I was about 75% sold... his patience, knowledge and perspective of the brand really opened up my mind.
He owns over 10 Panerai watches, and still he does not consider himself a Risti. Why? Well, let's just say he knows the stigma of term "Risti"... Some owners just do not want to automatically be called a Risti just because he owns a Panerai watch.
After sharing his collection with me, suddenly I felt that Panerai watches ain't THAT bad... it's the portrayal of some hardcores that's making it LOOK bad. Pretty well built actually.
So, a friend of mine wanted to sell an old beaten up PAM005 and I decided what the hell, maybe it's time I got one.
And I did.

Again, the same thing happened to me.
I was voicing my disdain for Ristis (based on my own experiences) at local foras.
I even shared some nasty back and forth with a fellow Risti that he decided to send me a private messages asking what is bugging me?
Needless to say, he is a Risti of my local Malaysian chapter.
He is adamant that I joined in the local Risti scene.
Shared with me the passion and camaraderie.
It was good for a moment.

Until I decided to post at their "home" site what I thought was a legitimate question and concerns and I was labelled a "troll"... by a fellow Malaysian who decided that it is ok to do some selective reading to what I have previously posted.

Ouch... yes I was disappointed to say the least. But it's OK. I am used to eating my own words.
So now... back to my conundrum... I have a Panerai watch, but I am being cast into Pariah-zone...
Since the watch that I bought is an old beaten up watch that doesn't come with a nice leather strap (it was badly used), I am wearing it on OEM rubber strap.
I ordered some straps from some well known makers (I think) and I am just starting the Panerai journey and brotherhood.
And as fast as I am in... I am now out.
It really is a tough community to break into... one which I will not try again.


Now I am sitting at my office. Exact pose as the above picture... Deep in thought, thinking maybe this Panerai thing and me is just not meant to be.

But hey, I am used to eating my own words :-)

Point is there are ristis and there are RISTIS.
There are wis and there are WIS.
There are collectors and there are COLLECTORS.

Day after day, the line gets blurred, then everything is lumped altogether.
So, in your journey... I do hope you meet some hardcores every now and then, so that you will recognize the real deal and treasure it more.
I did.

Sunday, 4 November 2012

ZENITH EL PRIMERO RAINBOW FLYBACK

This is another watch in my collection that is deemed "untouchable"
Being a huge Zenith fan, I am not particularly fond of the direction they're heading now. Not design wise... just the size.
No doubt there are some nice pieces in the current collection but the sizing is not what I would recommend for Asian wrists.
They're getting too big.
So this is one of the older models that are made in the classic sizes... 40mm.
The Zenith El Primero Rainbow Flyback.



This watch is born when the French Airforce Pilots needed a sturdy, robust and reliable watch with easy legibility.
This is the monochrome black / white model.
There is another model which fits the "Rainbow" moniker better as it comes with some splash of colour here and there.
I like both equally but only crossed path with a black so here we are. I am after all a black dial man evident from my collection which consists of mostly black dialed watches.



Movement fitted in this watch is a variant of the legendary caliber 400, called the El Primero caliber 405.
The movement comes with a "Flyback" function.
On a normal chronograph, it takes one push of the 2 o'clock button to start the chronograph function, another push on the same button to stop. And one push on the button at 4 o'clock to reset the hands to zero.
What a Flyback allows is during the calculation of the elapsed time (while chronograph is still running), you can actually press the reset button to to 2 things at once. To reset the hands (chronograph seconds hand "flyback" to the starting position), and the chronograph starts again.
As opposed to a normal chronograph where you have to start, stop, reset and start.
A Flyback can complete the 4 steps in 2.



The dial is just so cool. Loaded with little details.
The contrasts of black and white meant that the legibility is excellent. Only other watch I can think of that has the same monochrome dial is the Omega Speedmaster Professional otherwise known as the "Moonwatch"
Sapphire crystal is treated with anti reflective coating on both sides.
Which meant that under certain conditions, the watch looked as if it's without a crystal.
On the outer rim of the dial, it is printed with a "Telemeter" scale.
The way the black dial merges with the black rehaut and then continues to the black bezel insert meant that the watch actually looks bigger than the 40mm case size suggest.
Date is at the 4.30 position, a trademark with old Zenith watches.
New models now have the date moved to 6 o'clock... lost some it's old school charm if you ask me.
Date clicks past in one swift jump after 12 midnight.
No creeping date wheels starting from 10pm which annoys me.




No clear caseback for me to view the movement. But as a consolation, the caseback is nicely engraved.
Thomas Priek used to make sapphire casebacks for this model but unfortunately during my correspondence with him, he no longer makes them anymore... sigh...
The watch case itself is brushed... fully... which means that the watch does not possess any shiny or reflective surfaces except for the caseback...
Total tool watch look.



Bracelet is comfortable. Well designed.
I would have like the watch to come with micro adjustments or screw pins instead of pressure pins...
Butterfly clasp is easy to use... locking clicks with an assuringly firm snap.
Does it's job well enough though so not much a complaint.



Crown is unsigned which is a little disappointing.
Would've been nice to have a Zenith Star engraved there.
Push pull type... not screw in... but water resistance rated to 100m... I won't take my chances in a swim with this watch I can tell you that...
Chronograph pushers are all good.
Easy to push and every button push comes with firm click.



I love the individual minute markers that are printed to the outer date window border. They still provide you with a marker for accurate telling of time without needing to guess.
I would prefer the arabic numbers to be intact whole instead of being cut-out... but with limited real estate on the dial, something just gotta give way.



Another thing that is missing in modern Zenith watches is that they no longer use cursive writing for "El Primero", they all have modern fonts now. Too bad in my opinion as the traditional writing seems to add a little bit of old school charm in a timepiece. My experience with this watch has been generally positive.
But of course I am biased as I am a huge fan of Zenith. :-)
Being a fan of a brand, you tend to sometimes overlook minor flaws. Not to say that this watch is flawed. It is a perfect watch... for me at least.


The reason why older Zenith watches are more sought after is actually down to 1 man.
Mr.Thierry Nataf.
When he took over the top job at Zenith, the watches released during his time was just over the top. 
Big, brash and loud... unrefined.
Totally not in line with Zenith's past and traditions.
So people started looking for older classic designs as the newer designs just couldn't relate to the fans like me.

Now that Mr.Frederic Dufour is taking the helm at Zenith for the past 2 years... I have seen Zenith going back to their roots and reviving lot's of Zenith's iconic designs. Still a long way to go... but in the meantime, I have my Zenith Rainbow to keep me company and remind me of a once illustrious era of Zenith watches... while waiting for a second coming... patiently.

Friday, 2 November 2012

TUDOR SUBMARINER 94110

This is one of the watch in my collection that I deem "Untouchable"
Reason being these are harder and harder to come by in good condition and with the amount of franken watches out there, it's very hard to determine the authenticity.
And the best reason is, based on the serial number, this watch is actually produced on the same year I was born.
Yes... this watch is as old as I am... born on the year 1979.
Tudor Submariner 94110 "Snowflake"


Often referred to as the "Poor man's Submariner"
They are run on ETA movements but the case, bracelet and design is as Rolex as it gets.
Only thing missing is the crown on the dial.
This particular reference 94110 comes with the Snowflake Dial and Hands. Iconic in looks and design.
This year, Tudor actually released not one but two models paying homage to the Snowflake era.


I happen to come across this watch when a good friend of mine wanted to sell it. Needless to say, I bought it.
It was sent for service at Taipei Rolex Service Centre and verified that the movement and case matched.
When I received this watch, a quick check on the serial number database confirmed that this watch was manufactured on the year 1979!! My birth year!! Totally unexpected!! I am overjoyed.


Watch initially came without any bracelet.
Naturally, the hunt is on for a suitable endlink ref: 308b and a bracelet ref: 9315.
And boy was is hard to find... and expensive!!
This experience have made me wary of going into vintage watches anymore. Likely this will be the only vintage I own.
Bracelet is the older folded link type.
A real hassle to resize. But I did it myself anyway.


Remember the talk about patina on the Rolex Submariner post?
This is what I'm talking about.
Notice the tritium markers and hands colour has aged unevenly.
Some darker than others. This is what I call character.
No other watch will look like mine. This is unique to this watch alone. And alot of people value that.
Check out some of the peeling and cracking tritium.


The "T Swiss T" below the 6 o'clock markers is a sign that Tritium is used as the luminous material.
Shared the "Submariner" name with his bigger Rolex brother but water resistance is only rated at 200m.

Case design and screw in case back is also borrowed from the bigger brother Rolex.
Caseback engraving clearly states "Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva"


Crown is also Rolex signed... the Rolex Trip-lock Crown.


Check out the thick domed plexi glass.
Watches back then did not have the luxury of using box formed sapphire crystals... plexi is used.
Minor scratches can be polished off by using toothpaste... yes... toothpaste.
Drilled lugholes for easy bracelet or strap changes.


A little discrepancy I faced with the bracelet though.
Although it is clearly stamped ref: 9315... the width at the lug end is 18mm instead of 20mm... you can see from the picture above.
Now from what I know, Tudor did make some smaller Submariners... even Mini Subs... could this be a bracelet for those watches but stamped as the same 9315 reference code as well?
I don't really know but I suspect so. Not a deal breaker in anyway as the bracelet fit the endlinks.


I find this watch as versatile as the bigger brother the Rolex Submariner. I wear this mostly on nato strap which looks nicer.

Now do I think of this as a "Poor man's Submariner"? 
Definitely not. It can hold it's own even today.
For a 33 year old watch still running at +-4 seconds a day? Absolutely admirable.
Since the release of Tudor's newer models paying homage to this watch namely the Black Bay and Pelagos, demand for these have increased of late together with the asking prices. I am glad I got mine before all this and from a good friend which I consider my horology teacher.

Thursday, 1 November 2012

ROLEX SUBMARINER 14060

Today I am gonna talk about one of the most iconic watch of all time. Equally lauded and criticized, loved and hated.
The evergreen Rolex Submariner ref: 14060.


This is a T serial year 1996 model ref: 14060 powered by the Rolex caliber 3000.
This Rolex caliber have been heavily criticized by Walter Odets when he reviewed the Rolex Explorer ref: 14270 fitted with the same caliber. He did marvel at the accurate timekeeping of the movement though.
Models after the year 1999 (A serial and after) have been upgraded to a newer movement which is Caliber 3130 carrying ref: 14060M.
And on year 2007 (M serial and after) the watch is upgraded yet again with the movement Caliber 3130 now being undergone COSC certification. Model ref remain as 14060M.
So, the 14060 and the 14060M before year 2007 is fondly referred to as a "Submariner 2 Liner" (2 lines of text above the 6 o'clock marker reading SUBMARINER and 1000FT = 300M)
Whereas those manufactured on the year 2007 and after is called the "Submariner 4 Liner" (4 lines of text in addition to the SUBMARINER and 1000FT = 300M, there's also SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER and OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED) which adds 2 lines of text hence 4 liner.
All I can say is Chronometer certified or not, my Rolex Submariner definitely kept excellent time with a deviation of +-2 seconds a day!!


Just look at that dial.
This design has been copied so many times and not to mention all the fakes and replicas around that it's actually funny just thinking about it. Have anyone wondered why it's been copied or replicated so much? I would say it's because the design is universally appealing. The design slowly but surely draws you in.
The mercedes hands, the triangular / rectangular / round markers... all work in tandem, the whole package.
One mistake that annoy me is that alot of people refer this to the Submariner No Date or Sub ND.
In actual fact, this is called the Submariner.
And the other one is called the Submariner DATE.
Just something I want to clarify though.
I used to hate Rolex.
Yes... as a brand and everything.
Their watches seemed outdated, bracelets are flimsy, premium pricing and of course, the stigma that came with wearing one.
But I was wrong as I did not know that there are actually less blingy sports / professional stainless steel models like this one.
Understated, iconic, robust and reliable.


This being a 1996 manufactured watch meant that at the time, Tritium is still used as the luminous material.
As you can see below the 6 o'clock marker.
Swiss - T<25 as opposed to the newer Swiss or Swiss made.
The allure of the tritium dial and hands is that in time, the tritium will start to patina, which will cause the colour to change from white to cream and sometimes dark brown.
Rolex collectors seems to like it as it is something unique to the watch. No two watches will have the exact same patina.


Unfortunately for me, when I bought this watch (online transaction), the bezel insert was a fake. So I had to go to my local Rolex Uncle to get it sorted out. Changed to a new original bezel insert but not with a Tritium pearl / pip... it's luminova.
So no patina on the pip for me to look forward to.
But at least watch is now all original.


The most criticism for Rolex watches is targeted at the clasp and bracelet. Fondly called the "Tuna Can" bracelet and clasp.
Reason being the clasp is stamped pieces of thin metal (but strong) sheets and non solid bracelet links.
They rattle, they're lightweight.... but they work... for decades mostly without fail.
And they're extremely comfortable on the wrist.
The holes at the side of the clasp is for micro adjustments.
Can be done easily with a toothpick to adjust the fitting with 5mm increments.
But now, the modern Rolex with 6 digit references have all been upgraded with new solid links bracelet and new clasp construction.
As far as I know, the new ones works like a charm too... and feels sturdier and heavier.



The Rolex Submariner is the only model which comes with drilled lugholes and still comes with non solid end links all the way until it's discontinuation this year (Replaced by the new ref: 114060). It makes it so much easier to change bracelets to Nato straps or leather straps. A toothpick is all that's needed.


The 3 dots on the crown below the erm... crown means that Water Resistance is guaranteed to 300m depth.
This is known as Rolex Trip-Lock crown.


Love it or hate it, it is my opinion that a Rolex have to be present in any serious watch collection. Just wouldn't be complete without it.


Until today, this Submariner is still one of the most comfortable watches I have ever worn.
A good friend of mine have pestered me to sell it to him for ages... and I suspect that I most probably would... only to "upgrade" to a 4 liner or the latest Ceramic Submariner ref: 114060
That is if I can afford it. :-)

Wednesday, 31 October 2012

WATCHES IN MOVIES

Since getting myself involved in watches, it is just natural that I will always sneak a peek what is on other people's wrist.
This does not only apply to real life people on the street.
It applies even on the silver screen, where fictional characters sport watches that are often or not made for the role.

Who can forget the Submariner Sean Connery wore on the James Bond movie?



Till this day, I think Bond or Connery if you like, remains the only person that can wear a diving watch, on nato strap... with a tuxedo... and still looks good... lol



Roger Moore when he was playing the super womanizer... sorry, I meant spy... :-)



 Timothy Dalton?



I was watching the Expendables 2 movie the other day and I must tell you that the Panerai Bronzo PAM 382 got so much screen time that it's almost ridiculous...
Word has it that every actor got 1 to wear and keep after the movie has completed shooting.
Mr.Bonatti must must be a very happy man to see his company's watches getting the exposure.





And what about Jeremy Renner's character in Bourne Legacy?
Proudly wearing the IWC Double chronograph Top Gun... and in one scene... telling the girl "I need my watch back!!"



What about the Chronoswiss Tora that Anthony Wong gave Tony Leong's character in Infernal Affairs?



The Rolex Air King that Edison Chen aimed for in Infernal Affairs 2?



The Panerai Submersible on Dwayne Johnson and JLC Navy Seals Diver on Paul Walker in Fast5?




Even Cameron Diaz wears a Rolex Submariner Date ref: 16610 in the movie Knight and Day and looks damn good.



Jeremy Renner in Mission Impossible 4? A Submariner Date as well.



And who can forget the scene in the movie Casino Royale where James Bond and Vesper Lynd was having a conversation on the train where Vesper asks Bond "Rolex?" and Bond answered "Omega"... well played Omega... well played.


The list goes on and on...

Later I will be watching Skyfall... and again I will be noticing what watch Bond is wearing, the villain, the Bond girl, the guy sitting next to me, the ticket usher, the guy sitting behind me, the girl selling the popcorn... well, you get the idea... it just comes naturally now... lol

All pics borrowed shamelessly from the internet and credit given to the original owners.